Saturday, October 15, 2011

Imakumano Kannon-ji


Temple number 15, and for me, number two.

West Country Number 15
From Kansai by the Seat


I realized belatedly that the idea of going in order was not only unnecessarily, but already had been violated by me when I purchased my book and had it stamped at Nariai-ji. I was so hot to get on the pilgrimage but I hadn’t realized I was already on it.

And even though my reasons for going on it have evolved with new knowledge and with encouragement from a Buddhist nun of Australian origin, I still wanted to do it Right, and In Order, insofar as I could.
But since the typhoon had sort of effed up that plan…

My first planned temple visit was Imakumano Kannon-ji.

I’m going to share here what struck me most about the place, and for more detailed information (and also the source for most of whatever info I can share) please see this page (specifically, here for temple 15), replete with photos and great information.

I used my phone to navigate me into the temple, so it took me the back way. This meant I missed out on crossing the special gateway bridge at first, but got to do it on the way out.

Just a shrine gate along the way.
From Kansai by the Seat


From Kansai by the Seat

The gateway bridge is in lieu of a classic large gate that temples usually have. The orange bridge is connected to the Kumano Gongen spirit, and takes the place of the vermillion torii gate you often see at the entrance to shrines (not temples).

One of the first things I saw, though, was the path through the graveyard area behind the temple. Then I saw the main temple building. I found my way around to the front and got a good look at a pretty interesting statue: Kobo Daisha. It’s called the Komamori Daishi, which means child-protecting Daishi. Apparently, Kobo Daishi opened the first school in Japan that was available to all children, and not just noble-born boys. Being involved in education myself, I gave my own special little salute to this statue.

From Kansai by the Seat


Another striking thing I discovered was the image of Bokefuji Kannon. I’m used to seeing images of Buddha or others holding/caring for babies, especially the mizuko (stillborn, aborted, or miscarried babies), but this statue of Kannon is flanked by old people, not children. Bokefuji Kannon is the one you pray to if you want to prevent senile dementia.  Since there are so very many old people in Japan, this seems a good image to have around; it’s not something I’ve thought seriously about in my own case, because at least for now, senility seems far enough off.

From Kansai by the Seat


In the main temple area, I lit some incense and got my book stamped. The friendly priests told me I could go inside if I liked. I took off my shoes and sat a little while, too haunt to take photos right there, instead staring at the decoration and offerings, the bell and meditative.. what, equipment? and thought about what kind of quest it was I might be on, and what I was doing there.

From Kansai by the Seat

On the temple grounds, there’s also a mini shrine to Kumano Gongen, the Shinto version of the Juichimen Kannon (eleven-faced Kannon), enshrined more grandly in Wakayama. I said a little prayer here for the recovery of the Kumano’s home area. Next to it is a little Inari shrine. I love the Inari, those foxy tricksters of good harvest, so I said my usual thing with them.

From Kansai by the Seat

There is also a miniature pilgrimage on the grounds of all 33 temples, which I glanced over quickly (but just quickly as the light was beginning to fail, especially on the woodsy path). I walked up to the pagoda, but didn’t spend much time there.

From Kansai by the Seat


From Kansai by the Seat

On my way out, I took the main road, and followed a family with their dog a little ways. Instead of going directly back to the station, I made an effort to find a bus that would get me to where the brothers were currently hanging about. On the way to that, I found the Imakumano Shrine. This happened when I was walking and I saw a giant awesome tree (and we know how I feel about trees) ringed with the telltale this-is-holy sign of a rope with the folded white paper things.

From Kansai by the Seat


This is a larger shrine, also connected to the one in Wakayama, but with even stronger ties. Observe:

From Kansai by the Seat


All in all, this my second visit to a pilgrimage temple was much more informed and also much more time-consuming than my first nearly unwitting one last May.

As I go to various temples, I want to share as much about the experience as I can via blog.. so if you have any questions, please do ask (leave a comment). Nothing is too silly or too personal (if it is, I just won’t answer it, hah!); also, I do realize that a lot of this is like a foreign jargon, all these names of temples and sort of.. versions? Incarnations? Of Kannon, and of mountain spirits, and whatnot. Rest assured that I’m only one step ahead of you on figuring out most of those, and that I experience the delight of discovery every time I make the connections (since the connections are not very-well forged) between temples with affinities or with similar names, or whatever. Don’t let the terminology scare you off, just ask!

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